The ultimate guide to Iceland’s most iconic mountains

Esja mountain, known alternately to locals as Esjan, is best known to travelers as the mountain which presides over the capital of Reykjavík. Visible across Faxaflói bay, Esja provides a scenic backdrop to life in the capital, with the coming and going of snow on its sides announcing the passing of seasons to Reykjavík residents. 

With one of the most popular day hikes in the nation and a classically Icelandic geological history, Esja is a must-see for anyone looking for mountains near Reykjavík.

Geologically, Esja is a good example of many characteristic features of Icelandic mountains. Once described as ‘a geology textbook written by the Ice Age’, Esja is a study-in-miniature of the forces that have shaped the island.

The formation of Esja began approximately 3 million years ago. The processes that formed it took about 1 million years, with its ‘youngest’ sections in the east being a mere 1.8 million years old. Prior to the Ice Age, the land was likely relatively flat, with successive lava eruptions layering on top of each other. Alternating cold and warm periods of the Ice Age combined with subglacial eruptions to carve out the palagonite tuff formations, a kind of volcanic rock formed from the interaction of water and lava, that make up Esja today.

Today, hikers can see distinctive layers in the rocks of Esja, with basalt intrusions forming a separate layer on the lower slopes of the mountain, and more defined bands of palagonite towards the top. The flattened summit is also a common feature of Icelandic mountains, given the dramatic glacial erosion that occurred during the Ice Age. So the next time you’re hiking Esja, don’t just keep an eye out for the beautiful view, you can also get a tour through time as well.

About 10km (6 miles) from the city, Esja also serves as a popular recreation area for the capital area. At 914m (2,999ft), Esja is not a particularly tall mountain for weekend hikers, but the trail nevertheless provides a good workout for all but the fittest, given the relatively steep nature of the climb.

By far the most popular route is an 8km (5-mile) loop known as Þverfellshorn. Just short of the summit, a stone known imaginatively as ‘Steinn’ (stone) serves as a landmark for concluding this hike. It’s possible to extend the hike beyond this terminus, but from here hikers will face rougher going, including a final climb over scree to the top. The final ascent has been improved with chains and is generally considered safe, but as always in Iceland, hikers should exercise caution. The average hiker should expect to spend at least 3-4 hours on this hike. Several other trails mark the slopes of Esja as well, including trails suitable for mountain biking and a small forest to explore.

Although Esja is generally known as a pleasant weekend hike, it has claimed lives, with the most recent fatality in 2020. It’s not recommended to attempt an Esja hike in adverse conditions, nor outside of the main summer season. Even during the shoulder seasons of spring and fall, hikers will want to exercise caution and bring crampons. Find more information on hiking Esja from the Iceland Touring Association.  

Visit Reykjavík has good information about the trail to Steinn, and also has details about a gentler walk across Esja’s lower slopes.

If you’re looking for more adventure, you can take a guided hike on the via ferrata route that’s recently been developed on Esja, following a fixed line of steel cables anchored into the rock.

Affectionately known as the ‘Queen of Icelandic Mountains’, Herðubreið is without doubt one of the most distinctive landmarks in all of Iceland. Voted in a 2002 informal poll as the national mountain, it’s not hard to see why: rising dramatically above the Ódáðahraun highland, Herðubreið’s symmetry and form have made a lasting impact on poets and painters. With sloping scree at its base, the mountain is defined by steep vertical cliffs and a cone-shaped peak. No matter what direction the mountain is viewed from, it maintains nearly the exact same silhouette.

Herðubreið seems to have captured the imagination long before our time as well. Its name literally meaning ‘broad-shouldered’, the area is referenced in sagas dating to at least the 1300s. More recently, the mountain was likely the shelter of an Icelandic folk legend, Fjalla-Eyvindur (Mountain Eyvindur), who lived from 1714 to 1783. An outlaw who hid for some 20 years alongside his wife in the most barren Icelandic highlands, folktales have it that he took refuge in the nearby oasis of Herðubreiðarlindir, which is now the site of a campground and hikers hut.

The mountain was first climbed with certainty in 1908 by the German geologist Hans Reck and his Icelandic companion, Sigurður Sumarliðsson. There are earlier reports of an American adventurer named William Lee Howard climbing the mountain during his 1881 trip to Iceland, an account of which he published in the New York Tribune. This report was fantastically embellished (he described, for example, using a kite to anchor his climbing ropes) and is generally dismissed as a sensationalist memoir. Nevertheless, William Lee Howard was the first to identify Herðubreið as a volcano. 

In addition to its distinct shape, Herðubreið is also one of the tallest mountains in Iceland, at 1,682m (5,518ft) tall. Its height is also emphasized by its isolation in the landscape: not part of any larger mountain chain, Herðubreið seems to arise out of nowhere.

Herðubreið is a near-perfect example of a tuya, which is a kind of steep, flat-topped mountain formed by subglacial eruptions. These kinds of mountains are relatively rare throughout the world and are also known as ‘tabletop mountains’ for their unique shape, which is caused by the rapid cooling of lava underneath the glacial ice. This cooling forces the lava to form into a steep shelf. Only once it breaks through the glacial ice can the lava resume flow as normal. The method of its formation means that while Herðubreið is technically a volcano, it is unlikely to ever erupt again. Herðubreið is also quite young, having formed at the end of the last Ice Age approximately 10,000-11,000 years ago.

The surrounding highland desert known as Ódáðahraun is also significant as one of the largest and most pristine wilderness areas in Iceland. Declared a protected area and located within Vatnajökull National Park, there are several other significant geological features in the neighbourhood, including Askja volcano. Still active, the Askja caldera is some 20km (12 miles) across, but is currently filled by the lake Öskjuvatn. Askja was active as recently as 1961, and if recent volcanic activity has taught us anything, it’s only a matter of time until Askja wakes from its slumber once more.

Also on the route for travelers driving via Route 1 is Lake Mývatn, a body of water in North Iceland known for its vibrant birdlife and unique pseudocraters - a geological feature formed when lava flows over wetland areas.

Though hiking Herðubreið is possible, it requires more skill, planning, and equipment than a typical weekend day-hike. The first obstacle is, of course, its remote location, accessible only via F88, a mountain road that runs south from Route 1 (the Ring Road) near Lake Mývatn in North Iceland. This road is impassable for much of the year and requires a 4x4 vehicle even during the height of summer.

Including the walk to the mountain’s base from the nearest access point at Herðubreiðarlindir, the round-trip to the summit of Herðubreið can take up to 12 hours. Additionally, because of the risk of falling rocks and lingering ice even in summer, it’s recommended to carry a helmet, ice axe, and crampons. As such, this is not a hike for the faint-hearted or ill-prepared. An early start is essential, and local weather patterns mean that conditions at the beginning of the hike can differ dramatically from those at the summit. Except for the most experienced mountaineers, we recommend attempting this hike as part of an organized tour or simply enjoying the view from a distance.

Hvannadalshnjúkur (alternately spelled Hvannadalshnúkur) is the tallest peak in Iceland. At 2,110m (6,923ft), it towers over Öræfajökull glacier, a southern tongue of the larger Vatnajökull glacier. The region’s history is as striking as its scenery; the name Öræfajökull literally means ‘Wasteland Glacier’, a grim title earned after a devastating 1362 eruption.

Today, Hvannadalshnjúkur is part of Vatnajökull National Park, one of Iceland’s three national parks, and one of the largest areas of pristine wilderness in all of Europe.

While the ascent isn’t particularly technical, it remains a serious undertaking. The trek is typically completed in a single, grueling push of 12 to 15 hours. As weather conditions can deteriorate throughout the day, it’s not uncommon for ascents to begin prior to 5am. Because of the duration, hikers need a high level of physical fitness, though you don’t necessarily need to be a seasoned mountaineer to succeed. With the right preparation, ‘weekend warriors’ can safely tackle the summit. 

Safety note: Parts of the trail traverse the glacier, where hidden crevasses pose a constant risk. Never walk on a glacier alone. 

To ensure a safe and enjoyable adventure, it’s recommended to join an organized hike. These guides provide essential safety measures, such as roping hikers together for glacier crossings. As Hvannadalshnjúkur represents a significant challenge, it’s essential that hikers come prepared with the proper gear, including harnesses, carabiners, ice axes, and crampons, in addition to the essentials like thermal layers, good boots, and so on. A quality map, compass, and GPS navigation system are also indispensable on an ambitious trail such as Hvannadalshnjúkur. Private tour operators may provide some of this gear, so be sure to enquire before the day of your hike.

Even if you aren’t up for summitting this mighty peak, the area is well worth a visit, especially on a road trip of the Ring Road. Vatnajökull National Park contains many other pearls of Icelandic nature, such as Skaftafell, a nature area with camping and hiking opportunities for all skill levels. This area is also home to Svartifoss waterfall, much-loved among Instagram photographers for its black basalt backdrop.

Less than an hour away by car is Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, another must-see for any trip along Iceland’s south coast. A good day’s drive from the capital area, it’s the perfect destination for a shorter multi-day outing, or else as part of a longer adventure. While you’re stopping at Jökulsárlón, visit nearby Diamond Beach, where you can catch unique glimpses of the light playing off of the various icebergs that lie along the beach.

Kirkjufell (or ‘Church Mountain’) lays claim to being not just one of the most recognizable mountains in Iceland, but probably the whole world! At 463m (1,519ft), Kirkjufell rises dramatically above the small fishing village of Grundarfjörður. Its unique form of course bears resemblance to a church (and some local legends identify Kirkjufell as a meeting place for elves and hidden folk), though others may also see a distinctive witch’s hat. 

Made famous in its appearance as Arrowhead mountain in Game of Thrones, the image of Kirkjufell has become just as symbolic of our nation as puffins or horses. Planning a trip to Kirkjufell? Be sure to check out our guide to the Snæfellsnes peninsula – one of the most scenic day trips from Reykjavík.

Travelers driving directly to Kirkjufell from the capital area can expect the drive to last around 2.5 hours. However, the Snæfellsnes peninsula is one of the most scenic and historic areas in Iceland, so driving to Kirkjufell is usually combined with a larger day tour of the peninsula.

Upon arriving at Kirkjufell, note that parking is paid via an app. The parking lot is just across the road from Kirkjufell, from where you can take the iconic photo with Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall in the foreground.

The nearby town of Grundarfjörður acts as a natural rest stop for Reykjavík-based day trippers, offering a modest but cozy selection of cafés and restaurants. After a day of exploring these dramatic landscapes, what could be more comforting than enjoying a coffee or hot bowl of soup in view of this dramatic landmark?

In recent years, there have been no fewer than three tragic deaths on the mountain. As such, the mountain is closed to hikers except for a short window in the summer. Even during the summer window, we recommend caution, as the steep sides of Kirkjufell present a hazard to even experienced hikers. Kirkjufell mountain is one of the many natural wonders of Iceland that’s best experienced from a distance. 

There are, however, nearby hikes on the Snæfellsnes peninsula that offer a view of this incredible landmark without the risk. A walk up the nearby peak of Klakkur is a pleasant and accessible day hike which provides a much better view of Kirkjufell than actually hiking the dangerous peak. 

Visible from Reykjavík on clear days, Snæfellsjökull stands 1,446m (4,744ft) above the westernmost tip of its namesake peninsula. The mountain is technically named Snæfell, while the glacier atop it is Snæfellsjökull, though the names are often used interchangeably. (Note: there is another well-known mountain in East Iceland called Snæfell.)

Its silhouette is defined by two horn-like peaks formed from the erosion of a volcanic plug; beneath this icy cap lies an ancient volcano that has been dormant since its last eruption approximately 1,750 years ago. 

Much like Kirkjufell, Snæfellsjökull is often visited as part of a larger tour of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. Popular viewing spots include Arnarstapi, a small fishing village rich with local history, and Djúpalónssandur, which could be considered Iceland’s other black sand beach (and the site of a tragic shipwreck). Heading north from the capital Reykjavík, Arnarstapi and Djúpalónssandur are approximately a three-hour drive, though travelers may want to budget more time to soak in the sights along the way.

Snæfellsjökull is part of Snæfellsjökull National Park, one of three such parks in Iceland. A new visitor center, completed in 2022, features distinctive architecture and is a must-see for travelers who want to learn more about the geology and history of the region. 

Like many mountains and glaciers in Iceland, Snæfellsjökull proper is not suitable for solo exploration, and there are no hiking trails that are open year-round, though the Snæfellsnes peninsula does still offer many opportunities for natural adventure. Guided glacier hikes can be booked with private tour providers, and several nearby hikes offer stunning views of the peak.

Snæfellsjökull features heavily in local history, making appearances in myths, literary classics, and even some paranormal theories!

One notable story, Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, concerns a mythical being named Bárður, who might be considered the mountain’s guardian spirit. Distinct from the more historical family sagas, Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss likely originates from the 14th century, which is relatively young for an Icelandic saga.

The story is more fantastical than other well-known Icelandic sagas, with elements of folklore and magic intermingling with regional history. Bárður, the protagonist, was descended from giants and trolls. Following a life of (mis)adventures, he lost his daughter, Helga, who floated away to Greenland on an iceberg. After this tragedy, he left the world of men to live in a cave under the glacier, where he is said to still reside today, even influencing the local weather. Several local landscape features are named after him as well, such as Bárðarlaug, a small mountain lake said to have been his bathing spot.

We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the appearance of Snæfellsjökull in Jules Verne’s 1864 science-fiction classic, Journey to the Center of the Earth. Long considered a foundational work of the science-fiction genre, the novel can also be said to have first introduced Iceland to a larger international audience. Then an exotic destination at the edge of the map, Iceland served as the entryway to subterranean adventures for Jules Verne’s scientists and adventurers, awakening an interest in this volcanic island among readers around the world.

More recently, Snæfellsjökull has been the focal point of some UFO theories. During the 1990s (a period when The X-Files was coincidentally one of television’s most popular programs), several Icelanders claimed to have seen UFOs in the area. A British man and frequent traveler to Iceland named Michael Dillon claimed to have been contacted by aliens and that they would contact him on November 5, 1993, at Snæfellsjökull. Likely drawing on the popular UFO culture of the time, the story gained momentum, with several hundred people gathering in anticipation of first contact. Needless to say, Dillon and his followers returned home disappointed, but the story certainly illustrates Snæfellsjökull’s enduring hold on the imagination.

Iceland has long been a top destination for outdoor adventure, but one could argue that the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption really put Iceland on the map – rather literally, in fact.

Like many mountains in Iceland, Eyjafjallajökull consists of a glacial ice cap resting atop an active volcano. Although the eruption, which lasted from March through June 2010, was relatively minor, it caused massive disruptions to transatlantic and European air travel due to the ash and gases released. Occurring shortly after the infamous banking collapse, a popular slogan soon gained traction: “We might not have cash, but we’ve got ash!”

The 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption was also notable for the humorous attempts of newscasters the world over to pronounce Eyjafjallajökull. Eyjafjallajökull literally means something like ‘Glacier of the Island-Mountains’, which is most likely a reference to the nearby Westman Islands (in Icelandic, Vestmannaeyjar). Like many Icelandic words, it is a compound of shorter, simpler words which are not so bad on their own, such as eyja (island), fjall (mountain), and jökull (glacier). All together, this is pronounced something like “AY-uh-fyat-luh-YOE-kuutl”.

With the eruption long over, Eyjafjallajökull is still a worthwhile destination for many travelers. It sits above the famous South Iceland waterfall Skógafoss and is a constant landmark for road trips in that region. Hikers can also walk across the lava fields of Eyjafjallajökull, since one of Iceland’s most popular hiking trails, Fimmvörðuháls, runs between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers. This popular but challenging hike can be completed in one day and allows adventurers to see both Skógafoss waterfall and the nature preserve Þórsmörk.

If Herðubreið is the ‘Queen of Icelandic Mountains’, then it’s no exaggeration to call Hekla the queen of Icelandic volcanoes. At 1,491m (4,892ft) tall, Hekla is one of Iceland’s most active volcanoes, having erupted last only in 2000. Since the settlement of Iceland, Hekla has erupted around 20 times, meaning that Hekla has changed significantly in this time. 

One theory around its name posits that the term Hekla came from an Old Norse word for a comb. The original crater row that formed Hekla may have resembled the ridges of a comb, but over time, the successive eruptions built up the distinctive mountain that can now be seen from much of the south coast of Iceland. 

Hekla eruptions have also had a significant impact on not just Icelandic history, but even broader events in Europe. In Iceland, Hekla eruptions devastated farming communities in the nearby districts, and there are some historians who have even linked Hekla eruptions to events such as crop failures in Europe and the so-called ‘Little Ice Age’.

In fact, Hekla eruptions were so notorious that it was a widely held belief throughout medieval Europe that Hekla housed the gates to hell. One of the most famous early modern maps of Iceland, the 1590 Bishop Guðbrandur Þorláksson map, bears the following text under its depiction of Hekla, which is dramatically erupting: “It is condemned to perpetual frosts and snows; with a horrific roaring, it vomits forth stones.”

Even in the era of modern science with advanced measurement instruments and predictive models, ‘forecasting’ volcanic eruptions is an imprecise science. So take it with a grain of salt, but Hekla is overdue an eruption! 

Kerlingarfjöll is a dramatic highland nature area popular among outdoors enthusiasts. Located in Iceland’s remote highlands, the area is renowned for its vibrant rhyolite mountains and for its highly active geothermal springs. A network of trails crisscrosses the area, which was declared a protected nature area in 2020.

Historically, the area was beloved by Icelanders as a ski destination, but these days it’s better known as a summertime destination for hiking and camping. In 2023, the hotel resort Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll opened, providing the area with a previously unheard-of level of infrastructure.

Accessing Kerlingarfjöll can be tricky, as it requires driving mountainous F-roads. During the summer, this is possible in a 4x4-equipped vehicle, but wintertime travel to Kerlingarfjöll requires professional transportation via superjeep. Many private tour companies will pick up travelers near Gullfoss waterfall on the Golden Circle, but it’s possible to drive there yourself during the summer.

If you’re driving to Kerlingarfjöll from Reykjavík, expect the journey to take at least five hours. When navigating mountain F-roads, it’s vital to check the road conditions and closures. 

Jutting out dramatically from the Stokksnes headland near Höfn in Southeast Iceland, Vestrahorn mountain is a must-see landmark along the Ring Road. The area was once used as a NATO observation post, but is now a peaceful nature area, where all sorts of wildlife such as seabirds and seals can be seen.

Vestrahorn, which is 454m (1,489ft) tall, is geologically notable as one of the only Icelandic mountains consisting of gabbro, a volcanic rock formed deep beneath the earth’s surface, and a major component of the seafloor.

Vestrahorn is generally visited along a tour of the Ring Road, but with Icelandair flights to Höfn, it’s now closer to the capital area than ever. 

Turning heads on the south coast, Lómagnúpur rises 764 meters (2,506ft) above the vast Skeiðarársandur outwash plain. Its towering bulk creates a dramatic landmark beside the Ring Road (Route 1), making it a favorite photo stop for many travelers heading toward Skaftafell, Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers, and Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.

The mountain is steeped in folklore and saga tradition. In Njáls saga, the chieftain Flosi dreams of a giant emerging from Lómagnúpur to foretell the deaths of his companions after the burning of Njáll. This mysterious giant later became associated with one of Iceland’s four legendary landvættir, or guardian spirits, who protect the country. The giant of Lómagnúpur is known as Járngrímur, and he’s said to watch over Iceland’s south coast. He is depicted on the Icelandic coat of arms, iron staff in hand.